“Listen, O lord of the meeting rivers,
Basava, The Lord of the Meeting Rivers: Devotional Poems of Basavanna
things standing shall fall,
but the moving ever shall stay.”
Omkareshwar, Madhya Pradesh, India
Shiva, The Supreme with no beginning or end manifests Himself as a Linga (Phallic object symbolic of generative power). Self-manifested (Swayambhu) power centers are Jyotirlinga. Jyoti means radiance. Of twelve such appearances, Omkareshwar is on the Mandhata island on the banks of the Narmada in Western Madhya Pradesh. The closest railway station is Nagda and Indore, the nearest airport.
Legend of the Omkar
The island and the river together form the shape of Om or Aum, the eternal sound of the Universe. The name of the temple means ‘The Lord of the Omkar’. One important ritual at Omkareshwar is the circumambulation (Parikrama) of the Mandhata mountain. The reason being, Hindu religion considers most natural elements holy. Rivers, Mountains, Trees, also some animals and insects. And there are rituals involving them while we pray to the Supreme Power.
As the legend goes, and there are many, the mountain Mandhata wanted to be as tall as Sumeru. He observed severe penance for six months praying to a mud Linga of Lord Shiva. The Lord was pleased and manifested on the spot where the Linga is now. On the request of Gods and sages, The Lord split into another Linga, Amareshwar, meaning eternal, on the other side of the Narmada. Also called Mamleshwar. Meanwhile, drunk on Shiva’s boon, Mandhata grew to an enormous prominence and blocked the route of the sun’s revolution. Sage Agastya came by to resolve the problem. On seeing the sage, Mandhata bent down to touch his feet. But the sage stopped him and asked to stay likewise until he returned. And so henceforth, the mountain has remained so. At half the height.
The Parikrama (Circumambulation)
Hindus consider it holy and an act of penance to go along the path surrounding the mountain and finish it at the Omkareshwar Temple. Pilgrims take a dip in the Narmada at the Gau-Mukh Ghat (Cow’s-Mouth river bank), then get a boat to the Shivapuri island. They walk from the Gayatri Shaktipeeth close to the main temple. The entire route of about 7 kilometers is a cemented pathway. Sturdy steps take you across the undulating mountain.
The early view on the trek is of the gentle river traipsing on the rocky Vindhyas. Many religious and monastic retreats dot the bank across. On the path, stone billboards with the teachings of The Gita accompany the devotees. Soon enough, the flat territory turns into a climb. And the first of the ancient temples appears to the left of the track.
Kedareshwara Temple
A Bhumij architectural style Pancharatha Temple, its construction is by Parmar rulers of the 13th century. The Bhumij style is a subset of the Nagari architecture most commonly seen in North India. A Pancharatha (Five Chariots) Temple is one in which there are five vertical offset projections on the temple tower.
The foundation shows a Mandap (Courtyard with a porch), leading to the Sanctum Sanctorum. Now, there is only an open verandah, with a Nandi bull, leading in. The head of the entrance has Ganesha carved on it. The inner precinct is tiny and holds the sacred shiva linga.
As we pause and reflect on this spiritual path, a street vendor draws our attention. Piles of coins lie in front of him. Pilgrims offer a donation to all the temples and the poor mendicants on the way. This business helps them get change. So, if you want to change Rs. 10/-, the vendor gives 9 coins for Rs. 10/-. Rupee 1 being his fee for the exchange.
