“Art is like a border of flowers along the course of civilization.”
Lincoln Steffens
Alexandria Day Tour Part-2
The principal seaport for Egypt and a major industrial centre, Alexandria, welcomes travellers from all over the world. And not just now in the recent past, but throughout the ages since its occupation. Attracted by the Great Library, intellectuals since the Middle ages have come here seeking knowledge. As a country closer both to Asia and the rest of Africa, it is a great place to soak in the Mediterranean vibe instead of going to Europe.
If one had to make the best of the city of Alexandria in a day, it’s important to wear comfortable shoes and carry a hat or umbrella. The Mediterranean weather makes it a warm place to be out all day without protection. But before we head on to follow the rest of the itinerary, it is a useful digression to head back to the Corniche for a refuel.
Trianon & Délices
Two interesting cafes I will recommend are Trianon and Delices Patisserie. The Trianon is a 117-year-old quaint cafe serving Mediterranean fare since 1905. Old world interiors, a sea view and large portions make it an attractive proposition for lunch or a snack.
Délices is a wonderland for anyone with a sweet tooth and a fetish for Greek food from the year 1922. Since 1907, the same family continues to entertain tourists with the choicest of delicacies.
Egyptian Chamber of Commerce
Next to Délices’ cafe is the imposing building of the Egyptian Chamber of Commerce showcasing Greek architectural features. Tall columns with Corinthian capitals support the triangular cornice. Established in 1922, it is the first chamber of Egypt and acts as a link between local and overseas businesses.
Serapeum and Pompey’s Pillar
The Serapeum is an important Greek temple built in the Ptolemaic period. Often called the “daughter library” of Alexandria, this largest of the temples worshipped Serapis, the Sun god and lord of healing and fertility. This 3rd century temple stopped being functional in 325 AD, as the Romans considered it a pagan practice. Today, the underground ruins of the library serve as the only reminder of its existence.
The colossal Pompey’s Pillar, a mark of Roman victory, distinguishes the acropolis. The name is an error owing to the misreading of the Greek inscription, and in reality is a dedication to Emperor Diocletian, who suppressed an Egyptian uprising and an impending famine.
Beneath the Pillar are two Ptolemaic era sphinxes, likely from 1 BC. Both the pillar and the sphinxes are of red granite. Many excavated artefacts from the site are in the complex as well.
Catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa
Kom El Shoqafa is a huge necropolis and royal cemetery from the 2nd century. The catacombs are one of the Ancient Wonders of the Middle Ages. Hellenistic, Egyptian and early Roman architecture all together form a rare fusion here. Burial niches are both over and underground. The underground complexes feature hundreds of burial chambers and even a temple-like structure that could be the principal tomb chamber. The open complex has burial paraphernalia and other artefacts.
This brings us to the end of the Alexandria day tour, just in time before the complex shuts. A three-hour drive back gives us enough time to rest and relax before exploring Cairo the next day.
Ma’Salama friends, until we meet again…
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