“The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page.”
Saint Augustine
Day trips Around Pune
The area around Pune is rich in history and mythology, as is most of India. Temples, forts, and ancient Buddhist caves dot its immediate neighbourhood. After a marathon two-day Ashtavinayak trip, one may feel they have seen quite a lot. But as promised in the last post, I will share with you two itineraries of day trips around Pune. It includes a few of the Ashtavinayak temples apart from some unique sites.
One of them is the fort temple of Jejuri dedicated to Lord Khandoba, and the other Buddhist caves at Lenyadri are also home to the Girijatmaj Ganapati. Though both are religious sites, they represent the architecture of the times. The cultural aspect, of course, stands out in what they mean to the believers. In particular, at Jejuri, where the remains of the Bhandara (Turmeric) festival make the temple turn golden yellow at all times of the year.
Itinerary 1
Pune – Jejuri – Morgaon – Pune
Jejuri is an hour and a half away (around 50 km) from Pune and is most famous for its Khandoba temples, an ancient one at KadePathar (Hard plateau) and the newer one. The newer temple is a gad-kot, meaning a fort temple, dating to the late 17th century. Parts of the temple are from the 13th century as well.
Historically, Marathas held sway over the Jejuri fort, and later, the Holkars took over the maintenance and reconstruction of the temple in the 18th century. In fact, a Shiva temple in the memory of Malhar Rao Holkar and his three wives and a reservoir is near KadePathar. This site is also significant as the meeting place of Shivaji Maharaj and his son, Sambhaji Raje.
Khandoba Jejuri Gad
Khandoba is considered as a reincarnation of Shiva and represented as a warrior riding a white horse and holding a sword. One of his many wives, Mhalsa, rides along with him in most depictions. Called by various names like Martanda Bhairav and Malhari, Khandoba’s legends fill many ancient texts.
Idols within the Jejuri fort temple
From the base of the hill, there are three ways by which one can ascend to the fort. A climb of about 400 steps reaches the main entrance of gad-kot. Seven arches and many deep stambh (lamp pillars) mark this uphill climb. The octagonal courtyard has 63 covered verandahs. A very prominent architectural feature is the 20 feet turtle engraved on the floor near the entrance. This courtyard also has several lamp pillars and other small temples. Altogether, the fort temple boasts around 350 stone lamp pillars.
From Jejuri, Morgaon is around 20 kms away. You can read about Mayureshwar Ganapati here.
Itinerary 2
If one wasn’t doing the Ashtavinayak yatra, a trip to the Buddhist caves at Lenyadri is a beautiful drive less than 100 km from Pune. On approaching the base of the mountain, the caves high up appear like small windows on an enormous wall. Three hundred winding steps above, a large courtyard opens up to the cave structures.
The temple of Girjatmaj Ganapati is in one of the larger caves (No.7) with meditation cells within. We can enter the temple through a narrow flight of steps next to cave 6 that leads to a pillared verandah with a water cistern.
A Buddhist legacy
Dating from the 1st to 3rd century AD, the caves have two prayer rooms, while the rest are dwellings for the monks. The first cave we encounter (No.6) is the main Chaitya-Griha (Buddhist temple) with a Stupa (relic shrine). It has pillars with animal capitals and a spectacular ceiling. Access to the rest of the caves is through narrow stairs across the breadth of the mountain.
Courtyard with interiors of Cave no. 6
The Vihara, that is the monks’ accommodations, ranges from the absolutely simple to one with verandahs, benches and even decorative pillars. Some rooms are small, others large, their purpose was not just rooms for stay, but also as study halls, and dining rooms. In all, there are 26 numbered caves.
Access paths to the Viharas
Some of the Viharas in the complex
Views from both the hilltop destinations are picturesque and add to the locations’ beauty. Despite the religious aspect, they are also good picnic spots and worth a trip. Next time, you are wondering where to spend a weekend, keep these itineraries in mind for day trips around Pune.
