“No borders, just horizons – only freedom.”
Amelia Earhart
Forts on the Northern Coast of Goa – Part II
After talking about the earlier Goan history of local rulers, I have said much about the Portuguese rule, their beginnings, and their zenith in Goa in the earlier posts. For a colony far away from its motherland, every border that needed to be protected spoke about the longing hope of looking beyond into the horizon.
Fort Aguada, the mighty fortress that guarded Portuguese interests, is one fort on the Northern Coast of Goa at Sinquerim. It looks out at the confluence of the Arabian sea and the Mandovi river. Sitting on a high mountain top, its position at the Bardez peninsula made it the perfect defence against the Dutch and Maratha attacks. The principal reason for its creation and existence was the protection of the Panjim harbour and the replenishment of water for the outbound boats.
Of the forts on the Northern coast, Fort Aguada is one of the largest and its tall ramparts and lighthouse make it recognisable. Its unique structures are the Upper Fort, Lower fort, Church of St. Lawrence, and the Aguada central jail. The Portuguese started the construction of the fort in 1609 AD after a vicious Dutch attack and finished it in 1612 AD.
Fort Aguada – A Story in Pictures
The Portuguese constructed the fort at two levels, with the lower berth catering to the ships moving in and out of the Panjim harbour. Large bastions and solid walls line the entire peninsula and make for an interesting trek around it.
The upper fort has the citadel with the reservoir, lighthouse, barracks, bastions for artillery, and a walkway on the outer walls.
The freshwater spring of ‘Mother of water’ or ‘Mae de Agua’ feeds the reservoir that gives the fort its name. It has a storage of a massive two and quarter million gallons.
A large moat strengthens the defence of the citadel, besides the narrow gateway with iron spike studded doors.
The church of St. Lawrence, patron saint of the sailors, lies just outside the ramparts of the Upper Fort Aguada.
Fort Aguada Jail, once the preferred home for detaining drug peddlers, hardened criminals, and others, sits on the lower ground of the peninsula. Currently, it is being converted into a museum.
A long winding road starting near Sinquerim takes you to the Upper Fort Aguada. We can explore lower Fort Aguada via a trek starting from Sinquerim beach that goes behind the Taj Fort Aguada up the hill. Exploring the Fort in its entirety can be a half-a-day itinerary. You can start the day with a morning trek along the lower fort, taking a breakfast break, and covering the upper fort and Aguada jail later. The jail is better viewed from a cruise boat, though.
