Chausath Yogini Temple, Jabalpur

The peripheral corridor has a line-up of 81 Yoginis

Chausath Yogini Temple, Jabalpur

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“Once there was, and one day there will be.”
Traci Chee, The Speaker

Maybe you know it. Maybe you don’t. But it all began for me in a quiet little nook called Jabalpur. I was born there! And hence I begin my ‘wrighting’ journey from this small but significant place. Hope to enthrall you with stories from the images I capture.

Chausath Yogini Temple

So, I take you to a place of importance in the primitive beginnings of the world, Chausath Yogini (64 Yogini). the seat of Shakti (Feminine Power). A super powerful religious centre constructed by the Kalchuri Dynasty. In the 10th century AD. And still standing! The original temple though is from the 8th century. You’ll find this classical temple near the famous Marble Rocks in Bhedaghat. Located some 5 km from Jabalpur, Madhya Pradesh, India.

This Chausath Yogini temple is one of the last remnants of the 6th century Golki Math University. The university was known for its studies on Mathematics, Astrology. And most significantly, for Tantric Yogini Cult.

Yoginis represent the composite energies of the transcendental power- MahaShakti (Feminine Super Power). They are usually 64 or 81 in numbers. These numbers are significant. These derive from Ashta Matrikas (Eight Divine Mothers) or Nava Durgas (Nine forms of Goddess Durga). An interesting fact is that yoginis are always shown independent of male consorts. Even in architecture, they appear solo.

A string of Yoginis in the peripheral verandah of the Chausath Yogini Temple, Jabalpur - ImageWrighter — A string of Yoginis in the peripheral verandah of the Chausath Yogini Temple, Jabalpur

Let’s step into the temple

After climbing a good 150 plus steps, you reach an open courtyard on the top. Awesome views of the Narmada snaking through Saraswati ghat in the ravines greet you. The Narmada and a minor river, Bawanganga (Bawan=Fifty two), confluence at this ghat. It is also known as Saraswati. Not to confuse it with the mythical Saraswati River of Prayag.

The simple circular wall in the courtyard betrays the exquisite sculptures within. Indian parliament building draws influence from one such temple at Morena, near Gwalior in Madhya Pradesh.

On entering through a narrow door, the singular edifice of Gauri Shankar temple catches the eye. This is the only temple in India where you may see Shiva and Parvati on their bull, Nandi. The dome of the temple shows various architectural influences.

Gauri Shankar Temple inside the Chausath Yogini Temple, Jabalpur - ImageWrighter — Gauri Shankar Temple inside the Chausath Yogini Temple, Jabalpur

At this temple, eighty-one niches line the inner temple wall. A unique yogini inhabits each niche. You can see them in various postures, moods, and expressions. And they appear to be paying obeisance to the supreme performers of Tandava and Lasya– Shiva and Parvati. Lasya is the feminine form of Tandava – the dance of destruction. Few yoginis seen here are Rupini (the beautiful one), Varahi (boar-faced), Narayani (Vishnu’s sister), and Kamala (Lotus-faced).

Unfortunately, Mughal rulers destroyed many. But the artistry of the wrights shines through the remaining ones. The past glory and sheer splendor of this unique heritage are worth a trip to this lesser-known destination.

How to reach

Jabalpur is on the Mumbai-Allahabad rail line. Flights to Jabalpur are available from all major cities. Road access is not the best way unless travelling from Nagpur, Maharashtra or Satna, Madhya Pradesh.