Marble Rocks, Bhedaghat, Jabalpur

“Nothing is softer or more flexible than water, yet nothing can resist it.”

Lao Tzu

Marble Rocks, Bhedaghat, Jabalpur

Let us continue from last week’s story of Chausath Yogini. A short 500-metre distance away and few flights of stairs down, boats bob on the gentle flow of river Narmada. Surrounded by short hills, it is idyllic. This is the beautiful Panchawati Ghat. The famed ‘Grand Canyon of India’, Bhedaghat lies a boat ride away. The land of Bhrigu Rishi (Sage Bhrigu) came to be known as Bhedaghat. It is also where Bhairavi (a fierce form of the Goddess) was celebrated and prayed to.

Here, one can see the unruly Narmada slither through 100-feet tall marble mountains. A stone made famous by the Taj Mahal! High levels of magnesium cause limestone to become soft, and hence, prone to erosion. Along the route, the soapstone marble gets carved into interesting shapes. Thus, creating a stunning vista.

Earlier, local communities would use this to their advantage. And create beautiful marble artefacts. Citing environmental concerns though, there is a ban on marble mining and cutting. Now, marble is ‘imported’ from other locales to fulfill tourists’ demand for memorabilia.

Visions of the “Grand Canyon”

As I embark on the boat ride, pure white stones blind my eyes in the brilliant sunlight. But the marble here is not just white, there are swathes of powder blue and even blush pink. A variety of slate or granite earlier used for making writing tablets are also to be seen.

The most interesting part of the boat ride though, is the constant commentary of the boatman. In the local dialect, he weaves a lyrical story around the stone, which even the most unimaginative of minds would get enticed with. Stories sound more interesting on a moonlit night, I’m told. The locals rave about the rocks shining like pearls under the gentle rays of the full moon.

Another peculiarity of the Narmada at Bhedaghat is the presence of small to medium-sized whirlpools. With strong current, they have the power to turn deadly.

Bhedaghat Panorama

Over the eons, the fierce Narmada has created rock edifices of magnificent beauty within these ravines. In the monsoons, when these waters rise up, they erode the soft stone. During the tourist season of October to March, what we get to see are the imprints of the elements. Through our imagination, we can visualise a crocodile, an Ambassador car, and the Trinity of Brahma-Vishnu-Mahesh. Eyes gravitate towards an entire panel of Khajuraho’s sculpture look-alike. Of historical importance is the shivalinga established by Ahilyabai Holkar, the queen of Indore.

The boatman guide now brings us face-to-face with a stunning panorama, Bandar Kudni. Meaning Monkey Jump, they are two very high cliffs facing each other. The distance between the two was once believed to be narrow enough for a monkey to jump across. Weathering of the rocks has made this gap broader now.

Also worth a mention is a panel which appears to be bullet-riddled. The fact is Narmada, also known as Shivputri (Daughter of Shiva), erodes the granite embedded in the marble. When they are removed, holes get created. As they are carried along the river flow, these granite stones become well rounded and smooth. Revered as Narmadeshwar Shivalinga (Shiva’s idol from the Narmada), they are of high religious importance.

And as I return from the ride carrying peace and tranquility within, it is time to reflect on the wonders and power of nature.

See you next Saturday, with another pristine locale from the heartland of India, Jabalpur.

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