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Fort Bassein, Vasai, Mumbai

“Explore, Experience, Then Push Beyond.”

Aaron Lauritsen

Fort Bassein, Vasai, Mumbai

For a settlement so close to the megapolis of Mumbai, the northern suburb of Vasai is a quiet hamlet with an old-world charm, coexisting with modernity. Over the years, people have called this Mumbai suburb, named after the Vasa Konkani community, Baxay, Bassein, and Bacaim (all of them pronounced Basai). Today, ruins of massive Bassein Fort, a few churches, and villages of the original inhabitants mark this settlement.

Porta Da Terra, the land side entrance to Fort Bassein - ImageWrighter
Porta Da Terra, the land side entrance to Fort Bassein

History

What is surprising is its history dating back to the prehistoric era. Trade relations with Babylon and Egypt existed from 2000 BC to 500 BC, and then with Persian and Muslim traders till 1200 AD. Sopara in Vasai finds mention in an inscription of the Ashoka Pillar. Discovered here was a fragment containing a few lines of the Major Rock Edict VIII,  in 1882. From 315 B.C. to the end of the 13th century, the Mauryas, the Chalukyas, the Rashtrakutas, revived Chalukyas, and the Yadavas of Devagiri ruled the Vasai region. Later came the Sultans of Gujarat, followed by the Portuguese, Marathas, and British.

Stonemasonry defines all structures within Vasai Fort - ImageWrighter
Stonemasonry defines all structures within Vasai Fort

It was the Yadavas who built Fort Bassein (then, Baxay) in 1184 AD. The Gujarat Sultanate also built upon the existing fort. 

The Portuguese connect

It is during the Portuguese acquisition of the land through the Treaty of Bassein (1534 AD) that Fort Bacaim (a name given by Portuguese) resurrected. The Portuguese bombed the 12th-century fort and built the Fortaleza de São Sebastião de Baçaim or the Fort of St Sebastian of Vasai. Also called the Northern Court or “Corte da Norte”, its southern counterpart being Goa.

A Portuguese Coat of Arms - ImageWrighter
A Portuguese Coat of Arms

Worli, Mahim, and Bandra forts trinity, along with Fort Baçaim, remained the stronghold of Portuguese until Marathas took over in the late 18th century.

The layout of Fort Bassein

The imprint of Portuguese architecture is heavy on the layout and the internal structures of the decagonal fort. Stonemasonry makes the coastal citadel stand as tall and proud as it did in its heyday. For an abandoned military post, Fort Baçaim tells its story well through its ruins.

Ruins of the Captain’s Palace - ImageWrighter
Ruins of the Captain’s Palace

Spread over an extensive area, the fortifications have eleven bastions and two primary entrances. The west entrance from the land – Porta Da Terra and the sea gate to the east – Porta Do Mar. The bastions of the complex are the only remnants from the Sultanate rule.

Main entrance to the Citadel. Image Courtesy: Wikimedia Commons
Porta Do Mar, the main entrance to the Citadel. Image Courtesy: Wikimedia Commons

Within the fort, the Portuguese constructed seven churches, four convents, two colleges, a citadel, two palaces, a pond, a tank, temples, and several smaller structures. Of the churches, convents, and colleges, only five remain in decent shape. The citadel is intact, so are the tanks, the pond, and temples. Except for some parts, the palaces are in ruins.

The Citadel and Palaces

Close to the Porta Do Mar and the Koli settlements is the citadel of San Sebastian. Named after Portuguese king Dom Sebastian I, it is a fort within Fort Baçaim constructed in 1535-1536 AD.  The walls and bastions of this pentagonal citadel are in good shape and it encloses a pond, few wells, and some chambers. On one side, remnants of an enormous chimney mark the site of a kitchen ( see featured image).

Water bodies within the citadel - ImageWrighter
Water bodies within the citadel

The primary entrance to the citadel is from the seaside. It has the Portuguese coat of arms – arrowed weapons, The Cross of Christos, and a Sphere. A smaller entry also exists opposite the ruins of the palaces of the Captain (Governor) of Baçai.

The dancing hall of the Captain’s Palace - ImageWrighter
The dancing hall of the Captain’s Palace

The architecture of the palace is comparable to the one in Basavakalyan Fort. Ruins of many chambers, including a dancing hall and perhaps a bath, soldiers’ barracks, and a town hall exist on the fort grounds.

Ruins of the soldiers’ barracks - ImageWrighter
Ruins of the soldiers’ barracks
Town Hall in the Vasai Fort - ImageWrighter
Town Hall in the Vasai Fort

The Maratha imprint

1739 AD, the year of the Maratha victory over the Portuguese, led to a few temples within the fort. One of them is opposite the town hall, next to Captain’s Palace. Ahead, the statue of Chimaji Appa, the man behind this victory, stands tall within a park. For the brief period of Maratha rule, Baçaim got the name of Bajipur.

Chimaji Appa, the general who won over the Portuguese - ImageWrighter
Chimaji Appa, the general who won over the Portuguese

The victory was short-lived as the British annexed Bajipur through signing the Treaty of Bassein (1802 AD) with Baji Rao II, the Maratha Peshwa of Pune (Poona) in India. By this time, the renamed Bassein had lost its importance for the British and they moved to establish their reign in Bambaim, (Bombay and later, Mumbai).

Nageshwar Temple within the fort precincts - ImageWrighter
Nageshwar Temple within the fort precincts

The Churches and other religious structures within Vasai Fort deserve an honest and detailed description.

And that follows next week!

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This Post Has 2 Comments

  1. Anup

    Pls provide for further details about fort

    1. ImageWrighter

      What exactly are you looking for?

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