“Everything in Nature contains all the powers of Nature. Everything is made of one hidden stuff.”
Ralph Waldo Emerson
Basavakalyan Fort, Bidar, India
Many moons back in January, I had mentioned about my road trip to Hyderabad. I have since come back and regaled you with the stories of lesser-known heritage structures there. On my way in and back, I came across two long-forgotten treasures of our past glory.
The Basavakalyan fort, in Bidar district of Karnataka, and Naldurg (Fort of Nala) at Osmanabad in Maharashtra. Historians say the forts have a shared history of being constructed by Nalaraja (King Nala) of the Kalyani Chalukyas Dynasty around the 10th century.
Basavakalyan Fort
Dating back to 3000 years, the recent history of Kalyan begins with the Western faction of Chalukya defeating the Rashtrakuta in 973 AD. The capital of the newly established Kalyani Chalukyas dynasty remained centred around the Kalyan Fort from the start of the 11th century to the 12th.
At the end of the 12th century, Basaveshwara began a movement from Kalyan. Many thinkers joined in this battle against orthodoxy, caste, and superstition. In his honour, the city got the name Basavakalyan. Post 12th century, Kalchuri dynasty, Yadava, Khilji, Tughlaq, Bahmani sultan of Bidar, Adilshahi of Bijapur, Sultan of Ahmednagar, the Vijayanagara empire, the Mughals, and the Nizams controlled the fort.
Built for defence, this fort is a complex structure. The advantage of the natural setting made it difficult for the enemy to see the fort until they were close. Three concentric irregular walls and a moat safeguard it. One can also see guard rooms and barbicans in the complex, for the fort’s stronger resistance.
Layers of defence
Of the seven gates, five are in good shape. Constructed with four red stone slabs, Akhand Darwaza (Eternal Gateway) is the main door to the citadel. Towers on either side have a spiral staircase leading to the upper floor. The surrounding structure is a government office now. No gateway in the fort has a straight entry; their alignment is axial. Meant for strategic defence, this feature is specific to the forts of Deccan.
Akhand Darwaza leads to a square courtyard with interesting features – a Diwan on a raised platform facing a fountain, a pulpit like structure, and galleries on three sides with watchtowers. A hidden entrance from here takes one to the second line of defence through a barbican over a moat.
Two more gates, one having a prison within, and many ascending steps reach us to the next large open area. This has the armoury, a well, a wooden platform from the Bahmani period, and an entryway to the Raj Mahal (King’s Palace) and Rani Mahal (Queen’s Palace), the innermost preserve of the complex.
The Royal Residences
There is a marked difference in the royal residences’ architecture. There are intricate, artful designs on the walls and roofs. Though not preserved, they still evoke awe. Three entrances from the courtyard lead to the King’s palace, the recreation areas, a mosque, a temple and the Queen’s residence.
The temple is devoid of any idol owing to the Muslim rulers who ruled out of this fort later, but the artistry is as it was. There is beautiful calligraphy on the arches of the mosque. The king’s residence is rich with artwork on the ceiling and many decorative niches on the wall. Similar is the Queen’s retreat, with colorful embellishments.
There are two recreation areas. The Rangeen Mahal (Palace of Colours) is a common presence in the palaces of India and is for the private entertainment of the king. One such palace is in this fort too. A small fountain encircled by pillars, carvings, and niches on the walls enhances its appeal.
The dancing hall has a raised royal enclosure with cusped arches and a fountain in the middle. Double-storeyed viewing galleries on two sides sporting ornate windows surround the central hall.
Canons of the citadel
The third side of the dancing hall was perhaps for the sentinels with a cannon positioned behind it on the second storey.
Above the King’s residence, which is the highest point of the citadel, is the pride of the Basavakalyan fort. Nav-Gaz, a massive cannon made of an alloy of five metals mounted on a platform with swivel action. The alloy has certain qualities – it does not heat in the hottest of weather, does not corrode, and can withstand the worst of nature’s forces.
It’s a pity to see this majestic fort fall into disrepair. Most of its features are still intact but lack maintenance. As travellers, we must start a dialogue about these rare sites so they get their due.
