“One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.”
Henry Miller
A 3-Day Itinerary Churu, Rajasthan
Until I undertook the Haveli Trail, guided by the quiet but knowledgeable Lal Singh Ji, I only knew Churu because of its high (and low) temperatures shown in weather reports. Having never featured on the popular tourist circuit, this city fell off the map of a discerning traveller too for its lack of tourism infrastructure.
Realising this, I felt the need to share my Churu visit in as much detail as possible. Invited as a panelist at the ‘Shekhawati Showcase’, I delighted in participating in the experiences the hosts at Malji ka Kamra laid out in the 3-day itinerary of Churu.
Day 1 (3-day itinerary Churu)
An early flight brought me to New Delhi on a pleasant morning. Six hours later, I reached Churu in time for some pakora (Fritters) and chai. The next two hours of Haveli walk left me asking for more (see previous posts for details) and there was more!
The Marwari, being religious, set apart a quarter of their income for community welfare. Apart from the Haveli and a memorial Chhatri (Cenotaph) to his father, each merchant aimed to construct or contribute for a temple to the family deity, a caravanserai, and a step well or tank in his name.
Our walk took us to the Shantinath Jain temple, a 150-year-old structure. Built and maintained by the Kothari family, it is an art gallery unto itself. Gold leaf paintings in the themes of moral living adorn the interiors. Intricate glass work on the walls and interior are signature Rajput style.
As the sun set down, we proceeded to a laid back dinner at Prem Sarovar (pond), a 100 yr old Sarai (resting place) some distance from Churu city. With the strains of Padharo mhare des (Welcome to my land) performed by Bhopa, (folk musicians from Shekhawati) still lingering on my thoughts, a fulfilling day ended.
Day 2 (3-day itinerary Churu)
The morning started with ‘Shekhawati Showcase’ – an interaction aimed to bring awareness about Churu’s heritage and culture and discuss ways to bring it on the tourist map of Rajasthan. With the afternoon free to explore, I had the choice of two places to visit. Salasar, renowned for the Balaji (Hanuman) temple and Tal Chhapar bird sanctuary, both about 1.5-2 hours’ drive.
Tired after the late-night revelry and busy morning, I chose Salasar since the best time to watch the birds was morning. A smooth highway drive took me to the sleepy town of Salasar, its claim to fame being the Swayambhu Hanuman (Self-manifested Monkey-God) Temple. Consecrated in 1764 AD, marble and silver bedeck the interiors of the temple.
As I returned to Malji ka Kamra, it was time for a sundowner at the dunes at the fringes of the city. Night followed with more festivities as the Chang or Duff dance performers enticed us to let our hair down. Men, a few dressed as women, performed to the music of the Chang (tambourine), and flute.
Day 3 (3-day itinerary Churu)
On the last day at Churu, I walked to the fort, capturing some fascinating architecture of the city.
Churu fort is a construct of 1694 AD. Thakur Kushal Singh built it to safeguard the residents. Most towns of the era had the fort as the nucleus, with residences and temples enclosed by fortification walls having bastions, crenellations, and huge gateways. Churu is no different.
The legendary story of silver cannon shells being used by the Churu ruler against the Bikaner attack in 1814 AD makes it unique. Encroachments are rampant in the fort, and it urgently needs repairs.
Just outside the fort gate are the 99-year-old library and reading room of Sarv Hitkarini Sabha, a social organisation established in 1907. The red sandstone structure has covered balconies and intricate carvings on its facade.
Haveli, check. Temple, check. Fort, check. Next destination, Sethani ka Johara, a reservoir constructed in 1900 AD by the widow of Bhagwan Das Bagla during the terrible Chhappan Akaal (the famine of 1956, according to Hindu almanac). Now restored, it is a vision in white.
Chhatri architecture’s imprints are on the fifteen octagonal canopies around the tank. Steps going down to the reservoir punctuate the surrounding wall. One of these is sloping for the cattle to come in for a drink. Locals say that the water never dries up here.
