“Where thou art, that is home.”
Emily Dickinson
Havelis of Churu, Rajasthan
The fairytale ‘Malji ka Kamra’ is not representative of the mansions of Churu, and there are no less than 50 of them scattered across. It’s a well-known bit of trivia that the Shekhawati region including Churu, is the home of many successful Marwari entrepreneurs of India.
This region derives its name from Rao Shekha, a Marwari leader of the 15th century. From Jaipur, the Shekhawat Rajputs moved towards Jhunjhunu, Sikar, and Churu to expand their enterprise. Later these areas became an important trade route and the cradle of future business families.
The concept of Havelis began with 16th-century Rajput rulers when they wanted to distinguish the houses of courtiers and noblemen from the commoners’. In the latter half of the 18th century, the patronage shifted from Rajput to the Hindu merchants, Marwari, owing to the decimation of royalty by the East India Company and the rise of trade. They diverted their wealth to build lavish mansions.
The layout of a Haveli
Haveli is a residential space designed with certain basic elements such as a plan of inner and outer courtyards, the facade, and embellishments such as murals and frescoes. The deep religious leanings of the Marwari community also influenced its architecture. Fresco paintings and Araiish work decorate every interior and exterior wall of the mansion. The richer the merchant, the more ornamented the dwelling.
A typical Haveli would have the primary entrance on a raised plinth and defined by an arched gateway with multiple pillars (Gokha). This leads to the outer courtyard followed by the Chowk (outer verandah) having a baithak (reception or sitting room) on either side. Menfolk would meet here for business or just lounge around.
The Inner courtyard
Private rooms, the kitchen, a room for the family deities, and a water room surround the inner courtyard at the centre of which is a plant of Sacred Basil. Womenfolk of the family used this space for household chores.
Depending on the affluence of the businessman, the Haveli would have a third or fourth courtyard, for servants and guests. To showcase their wealth, a Marwari could also have 2 or more Havelis conjoined to form an extensive complex.
The functional aesthetics
Stairs lead to the upper storey and have larger rooms, used for household storage, adjoining a terrace.
The nohra (service area) forms a part of the Haveli as an attached open space. It has a separate entry gate near the entrance gateway, decorated with frescoes with a gaushala (space for camels and cattle) and storage for fodder.
Outer decor elements include fluted and round columns, carved stone brackets, and cusped arches. Latticed windows with coloured glass decor, and sun-shades, are not just for ventilation, they enhance aesthetics too.
Landmark Havelis of Churu
While the name Shekhawati brings Havelis of Mandawa, Ramgarh, and Fatehpur to one’s mind, Churu is the genuine leader of this pack. Apart from Malji ka Kamra, which was a recreation room, the city features mansions of Kanhaiyalal Bagla, Surana, Kothari, and many others.
The Bagla mansion built in 1880 AD is famous for the paintings depicting Dhola and Maru, Rajasthan’s Romeo and Juliet. By far, the largest of them and well maintained too is Surana double Haveli, Churu’s own Hawa Mahal (Palace of wind) with 1,100 doors and windows. Intricate work in every niche is the hallmark of Kothari Haveli.
A walk through the streets of Churu is like being in a time-warp. With the high walls of the stately homes leaning into each other, it is a place for you to savour, to be one with the vibrant colours, and appreciate their presence.
