“Time’s ruins build eternity’s mansions.”
James Joyce
A Peek Into Shekhawati, Churu, Rajasthan
A journey like no other, that is how I would describe my first ever trip to the Gateway of Thar desert, Churu, pronounced Choo-roo. A gracious invite by the owners of Malji ka Kamra (Malji’s Rooms) made me travel from Mumbai via New Delhi, to Churu. Having heard of the grand mansions and the Shekhawati culture on display there, my travel treasure-seeking mind soaked in the sights of the six-hour drive.
The earliest known history takes us back to 1360 AD to Kalera Bas, a group of hamlets settled by Chuhru, chieftain of the Kalera Jats, a community in Rajasthan. Fast forward to 1620 AD, when it became the ancestral seat of Kandhalot Rathore, a branch of Bikaner royals. Thakur (Landlord) Maldeo gave this city the name, Churu.
Malji ka Kamra
As I arrived at my destination, the history of the town started revealing itself. An old clock tower, ruins of once splendid homes, quaint doors welcomed me into Churu. Soon enough I came to Malji ka Kamra, a two-storeyed mansion in light turquoise green, restored to its glory by the current generation of owners.
As a rich merchant in Churu, Malji Kothari constructed this Rang Mahal (Palace of Colours) in 1920 AD for the use of Maharaja (King) Ganga Singh of Bikaner. The king used it as a guesthouse and an entertainment home for gatherings of royals and other prominent personalities during his visits to Churu. I would later discover that the grand dining hall that hosted our meals was the performing stage!
Rang Mahal, Malji Ka Kamra
The enormous doorway, bearing Mughal architectural influences, led me into the courtyard. Meant for elephants and camels to walk straight in with their royal occupants when required, it has a small window built-in for regular visitors.
I couldn’t but notice the pillared verandahs on either side at the entrance and the walkway above, connecting rooms on either side. Beautiful Jharokhe (windows) typical of the region adorn the outer side.
The striking edifice is a vision straight out of a fairy-tale. Its European influences are hard to miss with 250 columns and decorations in stucco. These range from figures of gods and heavenly angels to commoners.
The ground floor has a large hall framed by a peripheral verandah with beautiful arches. This was the venue for performances. There is a viewing gallery on the first floor, perhaps for the ladies.
Behind this viewing gallery, there are rooms, including one which belonged to the Maharaja of Bikaner. With intricate frescoes and artisanship dotting the walls, each of the rooms is a delight.
Shekhawati frescoes
The art of fresco making in the Shekhawati region (North-West Rajasthan) goes back to the 17th century when Mughals ruled. It developed a character of its own after the decline of Mughals and reached its pinnacle in the 19th and early 20th centuries.
The uniqueness of Shekhawati frescoes come from the commonplace things and local personalities they depict. They used natural substances such as lampblack for black, limestone for white, indigo for blue, red stone powder for red, saffron flowers for orange, and yellow clay for yellow ochre. Also, these are not painted on the surface of the walls but embedded in the plaster, mixed with limestone water. As a result, the frescoes lasted until the wall did. Chitere or Chejare (artists) come from the potter community and are both artists and masons.
The paintings are on the interior and exterior walls of the mansions, thus creating an open-air gallery for everyone to enjoy. Churu, though off the tourist map and lesser-known, offers one such arcade. And not just that, a spectacular Jain temple, remnants of a fort and water bodies to spend a quiet night under the stars.
