“The only thing new in the world is the history you do not know.”
Harry S. Truman
Purana Qila, Delhi
Amongst the most spectacular of Delhi’s landmarks, the Old Fort (Purana Qila) gets the least attention. Much less is known about it than the other monuments. Like Lodi Gardens though, it is more frequented by the locals. Here, for a search of solitude. Near one of the busiest venues, Pragati Maidan Exhibition Grounds, it is an oasis of calm.
Layers of History
Delhi is spoken of as having nine layers of history to it, the earliest from the Mahabharata Period. The excavations of ruins of Purana Qila tell tales of thousands of years. Artefacts from 300 BC have been dug from this site. Historians have claimed constant habitation from the Gupta and Mauryan period.
The existing construction dates back to the 16th century. Sher Shah Suri of the Suri dynasty wrested control of Dinpanah, a city developed by the Mughul king, Humayun. It translates to Refuge of Religion. He allegedly razed Dinpanah to ground. And erected Dilli Sher Shahi with Shergarh (Lion Fort) as his citadel. Humayun won Dilli back from the Suris in 1555 AD.
Historians debate if Purana Qila, the Masjid Qila-i-Kuhna (Mosque of the Old Fort) and Sher Mandal, the astronomy tower, were built by Sher Shah. Evidence contrary to that has been repeatedly brought out.
Gates to the Fort
Three gateways accord access to the fort. Bada Darwaza (Big Gate) towards the west is the main entry point. The walls are in ruins but the bastions are intact. The bulwark to the right of the gate houses a Museum. The ramparts are double-storeyed and semi-circular. Decorated with marble inlays and blue tiles. Rajasthani style Chhatris (Canopies) and Jharokhas (Hanging Balconies) adorn these bastions. These features became the mainstays of later Mughal architecture.
The second gateway is the Talaqi Darwaza (Forbidden Gate). Legend has it that this gate would open only when the king returned victorious from battle. Since that never happened, the gate has remained closed for centuries.
Humayun Darwaza (Gate) was the only structure attributed to the Mughul emperor. Although he also strengthened the walls and ramparts.
The Qila-i-Kuhna Mosque
1541 AD saw the construction of the finest monument of Sher Shah’s reign, the Masjid Qila-i-Kuhna (Mosque of the Old Fort). Some historians are of the view that the design and initial construction was of Humayun and then completed by Sher Shah. Interestingly, it sits at the transition of the Sayyid, Lodi and Mughal dynasties. Afghan architecture dominates this congregational mosque. Decorative elements in the mosque are from the Tughlaq period. The ornamental arches are reminiscent of the Khilji dynasty. Remarkable Marble Pietra Dura work on the external walls are Humayun and Akbar’s contributions.
There are five bays to the mosque, with a dome rising from the central bay. The dome has minarets around it. Corresponding to the bays are arches on the outer facade. The outer walls are replete with Persian calligraphy. You’ll notice that some parts of the mosque are marble, while most of it is sandstone. Believe it or not, they used sandstone because of the paucity of marble.
Sher Mandal (Sher Shah’s Pavilion)
History is dispute-ridden. And there is no better example than this architectural beauty to prove it. The first issue is about the name itself. Sher Mandal (Sher Shah’s pavilion) or Saur Mandal (Astronomical Observatory)?
The second dispute is whether Sher Shah constructed it or Humayun. Historians debate this on two lines. Its architectural style, which is a blend of the Timurid and Safavid traditions, is part of Mughal designs. Travelers during the era, like Badayuni and Anthony Monserrate, describe the existence of Dinpanah contrary to folklore.
Another controversy is about its usage. It doesn’t have any feature which a library should have. Although based on its position at the highest point in the complex, an astronomical observatory seems more probable.
Controversies surround Humayun’s death too. Some say he fell while getting up from the prayers by entangling himself in his robes. Others have the view that he slipped while hurrying to watch the rise of Venus through the narrow granite staircase.
Regardless, the octagonal sandstone monument stands testimony to a history we are yet to learn fully about. Now, it is prohibited to enter the building. From the outside, one can see an eight-sided canopy on the terrace. The upper storey is believed to be the library. The lower ground is enclosed as a mark of respect to Humayun. It was his temporary burial place.
