“Life is a full circle, widening until it joins the circle motions of the infinite.”
Anais Nin
Mandhata Parikrama Completion, Omkareshwar, Madhya Pradesh, India
As promised, let me take you a step back to the protected site of Siddhanath Barahdwari. A temple with prominent Brahmanical architecture, it is from the 13th century. Even from afar, the ruins stun you with their vastness and beauty. On an elevated plateau, the beige sandstone structure set against the blue sky makes for a compelling photograph.
Architectural Heritage
Built on a raised plinth eight feet above the ground, seventy-six decorative pillars stand testimony to the craftsmanship of the times. Each pillar is a visual treat with carvings speaking a thousand words. While intact, each cluster of pillars would support a tower (Shikhara). So, the Barahdwari (Twelve gated structure) must have had five towers – one central and one in each direction. Including the four entrances on the outer temple walls, four for each of the towers and four more for the Sanctum Sanctorum, the temple has twelve gates.
The inner shrine is intact and has a Shiva Linga placed in the centre on a granite platform. Out of the four doors to enter, only one is open now. Prayers happen even now and it was a blessing to witness an elaborate one during my visit.
The highlight of this temple is the panel of elephants on the sidewall. Elephants symbolise power and good fortune in Hindu architecture. Around fifty of them in various poses are around the platform periphery.
As with other temples on Mandhata Parikrama route, Aurangzeb also destroyed this (although some sources say it was Mahmud Ghazni). Excavations have revealed royal quarters around the temple. The Central Museum in Nagpur, Maharashtra houses some of these exhibits.
Culmination of the Parikrama
The Barahdwari is the highpoint of this walking journey. From here, the path goes downhill from Veerkhala towards the main Omkareshwar Temple, after crossing the Bheem-Arjun Gateway.
Since I have already covered the legend of the Omkareshwar Swayambhu Linga in the first episode of the series, let’s explore the Amareshwar Parthiv Linga.
Amareshwar or Mamleshwar
The temple of Amareshwar, the eternal, has existed since the 11th century on the south bank of the river Narmada. It is a Saikata Linga or Parthiv Linga, meaning – made of mud/earth as against being self-manifested. Nagari architecture dominates the edifice’s nook and corner. The carved statues of Shiva and Parvati are exquisite. The walls of the temple have Shiva Mahimna stotra (sacred verses in praise of Shiva) carved on them.
Worship at Amareshwar began from the time of the Holkars (1730-1818) and continues till date. Apart from the main temple, there are smaller shrines in the precinct. Scores of discarded idols lie around too. Although protected by the Archeological Survey of India, it requires much effort to maintain our cultural heritage.
Mythology and History, Nature and Architecture, Rituals and Adventure – the Mandhata Parikrama series hoped to bring you these with personal satisfaction written all over it.
For 21 weeks, stimulating the mind with images and storytelling was ImageWrighter’s only aim. For now, a break looks good to me.
