“Keep creating: the world yearns to celebrate your next masterpiece.”
Ken Poirot
Mubarak Mandi, Jammu City (Part-2), Jammu & Kashmir, India
A city blessed with eye-popping architecture, Jammu. Last week, I showcased Bahu Fort, the shining light of Dogra legacy. It stayed in use from around 1585 AD until the mid-19th century. In the next few episodes, let me take you through 200 years of Jammu heritage! All at the most iconic of the Dogra constructions, Mubarak Mandi Palace.
In 1710, Raja Dhruv Dev laid its foundation. He moved his official residence from Purani Mandi to DarbarGad, a Rajput locality. The eastern edge of the Tawi river with its high plateau made for an ideal site for its construction.
Many architectural styles dominate the entire complex. Dogra-Pahari, Rajasthani, English Baroque, and Mughal, to name a few. They built these Palaces in the courtyard style. Open spaces (Ahata) are in the centre, residential and official buildings surround them. The original plan saw four such spaces built, named after Dhruv Dev’s four sons.
Gates of DarbarGad
Four double-storey gates or Deodhis provided entrance to the Palace complex. The southwestern gate opened out to the market and residential areas. Courtiers would enter the Palace through the northern gate in Panjtirthi locality. The big eastern gate (Badi Deodhi) connected the Palaces of the king and queen. Another smaller gate called Nikki Deodhi (small gateway) is within the complex. And it connects the harem and official buildings.
Today, you enter the complex through the collapsed north gate, and the southwestern (main) gate. This Deodhi showcasing Rajasthani architecture is intact. It has eves and cupolas, and a balcony on the second floor for sentries. This was the ceremonial gate used during and after the times of Maharaja Ranbir Singh (1856-1885 AD). Historians credit him with the reconstruction of the Palaces we see today, most of them around 1874 AD.
To the left of the Panjtirthi gate is the Palace of Raja Ram Singh. This Palace has a colonial architecture with pointed arches. Arcades or series of arches are dominant constructs in this building. Also of note are circular columns. During the reign of Maharaja Ranbir Singh, this served as the Sessions Court. Government Library functions out of it now.
Central Courtyard
The central courtyard was the Deewan-e-Aam (Public Court). At the peak of Dogra reign, it had a royal platform (Raj Thada) made of marble with fountains surrounding it. Built during Maharaja Gulab Singh’s rule (1820-1857 AD), none of that survives today. Instead, a park for the locals exists now. To the west of this open area are the offices of the Information and Treasury. This is a new building in place of the collapsed Toshakhana (Treasure House).
Adjoining that lies the Palace of Raja Amar Singh (1848-1908). He was the Commander-in-Chief of J&K State Forces, and Prime Minister during the period of Maharaja Pratap Singh. Notable here are ornate balconies (Jharokhas). It housed the Divisional Commissioner’s office later and has the offices of the Mubarak Mandi Heritage Society now.
The Southern Halls
To the south of the courtyard are two splendid buildings – the Army Headquarters and the Durbar Hall edifice. Rebuilt by Raja Pratap Singh (1885-1925 AD) around 1913 AD after the Great Fire of 1898, these are in the Hindu architectural style. Interspersed with Rajasthani, late Mughal, and Baroque elements.
A central dome with a clock adorns the main entrance. Two smaller octagonal domes flank the corners. Small onion-shaped decorations accent the cornices of these domes and add to the beauty of Mubarak Mandi.
Carved stone columns, shaded arcades, and Jharokhas (cupolas) embellish these buildings. Durbar Hall houses pillars of different styles. Some are plain; others carved with petunias. The verandahs and corridors are not just design elements. They were, in fact, utilitarian, and used as visitors’ reception areas. The balconies had the dual purpose of ventilation and adding flair. Decorative pebble work and motifs from the late Mughal period lace the entire exterior.
Stylised pillars with carved petunias adorn the Darbar Hall 
Pink hall, which now houses the Dogra Art Museum, with motifs
One more beautiful and important edifice around is the Pink Hall, where the Dogra Art Museum is. The exteriors are well- preserved. Geometrical designs and motifs on the facade speak much of the preserved heritage within. I couldn’t see the much-admired Dogra Art as the museum remains closed on Monday.
Decorative pebble work, a unique local craft, on display 
A decorative cupola in the Army Headquarters 
Mughal period motif on the exterior
