“When life puts rocks in your way, build something nice with them.”
German Folk Wisdom
Old City Heritage, Hyderabad, India
The resurrection of the Chowmahalla Palace created a royal route of sorts into the old city. Visitors would enter through the Afzal gate, connecting the Afzal Gunj (Market) across the Musi with Chatta Bazaar (Market with a roof) within the old city, pass through Diwan Deodhi (Prime Minister’s mansion), walk along Pathergatti (Stone Road), cross the Gulzar Hauz fountain, and the Machli Kaman (gateway shaped like fish) to reach Charminar. Past the Mecca Masjid (Mecca Mosque), the visitor would enter the gates of the Chowmahallat.
The Royal route apart, deodhis (Mansions) of royalty and other landmark civic buildings smattered the old city. This episode is all about these precious specks of heritage, still alive but fighting for existence.
Government City College
Between 1915-20, Nizam Osman Ali Khan, Asaf Jah VII commissioned Vincent Esch, a prominent architect of the period, to design a building to house the burgeoning City High School. The sixteen-acre complex stands on the banks of the Musi, between the Purana Pul (Old Bridge) and Naya Pul (New Bridge).
There is a distinct secular palate to the entire edifice drawing from both Hindu and Islamic architecture. The Indo-Saracenic style structure has four arched entrances around six courts. These small courtyards are an excellent source of ventilation and light to the classrooms. Three storeys with a central archway and parapets with many onion domes supported by decorative brackets.
Mahboob Chowk Clock Tower
At the end of the Laad Bazaar on the west in Misrigunj (Sweet market), is a five-storey clock tower in the Indo-Saracenic style, from 1892 AD. Asman Jah, the Prime minister of Nizam Mahboob Ali Khan, commissioned its construction.
Each storey of the tower has a distinct design. The top storey holds an octagonal cupola in the Hindu architectural style. The next level with the clock and an access door doesn’t have any embellishments, except detached Corinthian columns, to facilitate unhindered view. Below the clock, the two levels have plaster and stucco work around the windows while the lowest is of granite and has stylised wrought metal railings and Qutb Shahi brackets. Windows reach up to the roof from above the door with three-foiled cusped arches.
A mosque on the west corner and surrounding garden completes the complex. The surrounding cacophony of a meat market and metalware market doesn’t take away the tranquility of the dainty centrepiece, though.
Deodhis of the Paigah – True Old City Heritage
The Paigah were Hyderabad nobility. The literal meaning of the word is “pomp and rank” in Persian. Appreciating his services, the second Nizam conferred the title of Shams-ul-Umra on Nawab Abul Fateh Taig Jung Bahadur. Thereon, the Paigah family came into existence.
Their lavish palaces made Paigah famous, as their status was second only to the Nizam. They gave the most beautiful Falaknuma Palace to the Nizam as Nazr (Gift). Their own Deodhis (Mansions) showcased exemplary art and architecture. Parallel to the Moti Galli (Pearl Lane), where Chowmahallat is, a lane leading from the Mahbub Chowk Clock Tower brings us to Amir-e-Kabir street in Shahganj, where the Paigah Deodhis are.
The first one on the street is Mirdhe Hamid Khan Devdi (Deodhi), a mansion immortalised by its teenage princess and her romance with the British Resident in the 1790s. Typical of the times, the entrance has a small window adjoining the door. Intricate woodwork on the facade is still intact and one can also see a small verandah on the window used for climbing over elephants.
Asman Jah Bahadur Devdi (Deodhi), a 19th-century construct served as the high court of Hyderabad, during his tenure as law minister. Marked with the emblem of Sun, it features Corinthian pillars on its entrance. Only the facade exists, and the rest of the structure is in ruins.
The magnificent edifice of Baradari Nawab Khursheed Jah Bahadur is the last one on the street. Constructed in 1880-1890 AD, the eight larger-than-life columns of the edifice stand out. Broken but intricate detailing on the top of columns is beautiful.
The interiors show signs of once glorious days. The Paigah Heritage needs to be cared for and restored; lest we lose it all to human apathy.
