“O Allah, help me write an anthem today
Saba Hasan Baqar
In praise of Ali Mawla, in finest words, I pray….”
Maula Ali Dargah, Hyderabad, India
Coming to you live from a road trip for the next several weeks, I plan to take you around Hyderabad, a city as illustrious as Jammu. Not just that, some discoveries made along the way too. Mohammed Quli Qutub Shah, a prince of the Qutb Shahi dynasty, founded the city in 1590 AD when water shortage forced the royals to move out of the Golconda fort.
Bhagyanagar, as the city was earlier called, embraced Islam after Bhagmati, the lady love she is named after, became Haidermahal. I will cover more of it later.
The legend of Maula Ali
Let’s begin with Hyderabad’s link to Maula Ali, son-in-law of the Prophet Muhammad, and regarded as his rightful successor by Shia Muslims.
During the reign of Ibrahim Qutub Shah IV, his courtier Yakut had a dream of being called by a man in green robes to meet Hazrat Ali, who was seated on a hill. Following his dream, as Yakut went to the hill, he found the handprint of the exalted master on a stone slab. This hill got the name Maula Ali Hill and in 1578 AD the Sultan constructed a Dargah.
The Dargah
Where the steps to the hill begin, there is an arch, Ashurkhana, a drinking water fountain, and a mausoleum built in 1823 AD by the musician, Khush-hal Khan – master of the courtesan Mah-Laqa Bai Chand.
It takes about 500 steps to reach the top of the hill. One can also see the older rock-cut steps around the new ones.
To the left of the steps on the way up, two small resting places exist. A little further is the Naqqarkhana (drum house). Climbing ahead, one reaches the main entrance to the shrine. Small outhouses and a mosque built by Mah-Laqa Bai are in the complex.
Naqqarkhana 
Entrance to the shrine with the mark of the Battle of Karbala 
A resting place along the uphill climb
The shrine is a small hall decorated with mirrors and houses the sacred palm-print.
The city celebrates the annual festival (Sandal) of Maula Ali on the 13th Rajab as per the Hijri calendar. Offerings from around the city shrines arrive during this period.
Views from the hill-top
There are three views from the top of the Maula Ali hill. Straight ahead on a small hillock, there is a Baradari (citadel) – Bargah-e-Fatima Zahra. The west view has the Qadam Rasool mosque bearing the relics of the Prophet. Between these two is another unique feature called the Bhandoli (appearing like jars placed above one another) Hill. Also known as fort of Arjuna and belonging to one Railu Rajah.
Bargah-e- Fatima Zahra 
Bhandoli Hill 
Qadam Rasool
After being wind-swept here, I glided down with a spring in my step, the excitement of discovering the story of the first celebrated Urdu poetess ahead of me.
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