“We never know the worth of water till the well is dry.”
Thomas Fuller, Gnomologia, 1732
Agrasen Ki Baoli, Delhi
This was my first visit to a stepwell in Delhi. Much before I saw Rajon ki Baoli. Earlier, I had visited the Adalaj Vav (Stepwell at Adalaj) near Ahmedabad. And I returned impressed with the architecture. Ugrasen Ki Baoli, as mentioned on the signboard outside, revealed the more functional side of a Baoli. This is a simple but important stepwell in water-starved geography.
A Baoli or Bawdi is a reservoir created for storage of water. At many places, it provides for groundwater too. Other than being a place to draw water for drinking or bathing, a Baoli became a place for social gatherings. Weary travellers found an adequate resting place under its shaded periphery. Kings and wealthy merchants built them to make use of their wealth. What you now call as Corporate Social Responsibility or CSR initiative. It also became a medium to showcase art and architecture .
The Legends
Agrasen (or Ugrasen) ki Baoli is the oldest remaining stepwell in Lutyens Delhi. It is a short walk from Connaught Place, India Gate or Jantar Mantar. One legend says it was built by a Mahabharata era king, Agrasen (or Ugrasen). He is considered the founder of the Agarwala community. There is a reference to this site in Pasanaha Chariu by Vibudh Shridhar. The very first known Agarwala author. According to the myth, this Baoli was constructed in 1132 AD. The renovation and current structure of the stepwell though is from the 14th century Tughlaq or pre-Lodi period.
Architecture and Structure
The stepwell is rectangular with a 15-meter width and 60-meter length. As was the practice of the period, the building material was rubble masonry. The thick parallel walls are unadorned except for Tughlaq-era arches and arched niches. The purpose was to provide the residents with water, and not displaying the wealth of the builders. Top two levels have designs of arches. The lowermost or first level has passageways and rooms along them. The north wall of the Baoli encloses a circular well, 8 metres in diameter.
Three storeys deep, it has around 110 steps leading to the well. So, no matter what the level of water, one could reach it using the steps. Earlier, during the monsoons, water used to rise to 6 feet within the well, overflowing into the central shaft and steps.
More Nuggets
Apart from the stepwell, there is a mosque near the entrance. It has a whale-back dome with four pillars supporting it. These pillars are red sandstone. Medallions embellish the sparsely-decorated mosque.
One peculiarity of this bawdi is the black water of the well. Some surmise that River Yamuna seeps into the well. It is a known fact that the Yamuna is black.
Protected by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), Agrasen ki Baoli has a rustic charm which belies its location. It takes us back to a time when leisure was appreciated and craft, admired.
While I wrap up this travelogue, I implore upon my readers to be prudent and proactive in preserving and protecting such an invaluable legacy. Not just to celebrate the artistry. But to leave behind for our future generations, a source of water!
