“Ruins are more beautiful than adorned castles, for ruins are the cathedrals of time.”
Ben Caesar
Deeper into Mehrauli Archeological Park, Delhi
Within the Mehrauli Archeological Park, we had found Balban’s Tomb decrepit. And the Jamali-Kamali complex forgotten. To see a better preserved and beautiful monument, let me take you deeper into the park to Rajon ki Baoli. One of the few remaining step-wells in Delhi.
Rajon Ki Baoli (Mason’s Stepwell)
Contrary to belief, it is not a kings’ (Rajaon) step-well but the masons’ (Raj Mistri or Raj for short). There is hardly any literature that enlightens whether it was built for the masons or dedicated to masons. Even so, it is bigger and more richly adorned than any other Baoli in the city.
It was constructed during the reign of Sikandar Lodi by one of his governors, Daulat Khan, in the early 16th century. Three-storeys deep, with arched corridors surrounding the main well, it makes for a beautiful picture. Adjoining the main step-well, there is an elevated mosque and an unmarked tomb. Inscriptions bearing Allah’s name and other Persian signages adorn the complex. Expansive and aesthetic, such places served the purpose of communities to come together and celebrate life. It was a Twitter or Facebook of those times.
Quli Khan’s Tomb
Before moving on to the story of Metcalfe, it’s important to share some history.
Mohammed Quli Khan was the brother of Adham Khan, Emperor Akbar’s foster brother by virtue of being Akbar’s wet nurse Maham Anga’s son. His grave is housed in a hexagonal Mughal structure built on a raised platform. Stairs lead down to the ground level. The dome is all-white. Spectacular tile work adorns the insides of the monument. The brilliant blue of the tiles with intricate floral patterns is eye-catching.
We have picturesque views of the Qutub Minar to the southwest and the Jamali-Kamali mosque to the northeast. But this 17th-century mausoleum is not as famous for being Quli Khan’s tomb as it is as ‘DilKusha’ – The delight of the heart.
Metcalfe’s DilKusha
Around 1844, Sir Thomas Metcalfe converted this sepulchre into his summer retreat ‘Dilkusha’. Metcalfe was British Regent in the court of Moghul Emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar II. As a connoisseur of heritage and architecture, he established the Delhi Archeological Society. In his words, ‘the quiet little residence’ was ideally near the Emperor’s. He could keep an eye on the palace activities from here.
Sir Metcalfe made many modifications to the core of the mausoleum. He added octagonal series of rooms around. There were two entrance halls, one each to the east and the west. The central hall, where the grave used to be, was his dining room. Except for the now-flattened burial room, Archeological Survey of India had stripped the rest of the construction in a bid to preserve the original.
Across this retreat, he created a lake (now dry) and a boathouse. It was an idyllic setting for honeymooners and holidayers alike. In fact, couples could lease the retreat for the same. To enhance the experience, a dovecote was inbuilt in the boathouse. Antics of the pigeons would keep the visitors engaged.
Metcalfe’s Folly
Sir Thomas Metcalfe didn’t just stop at restoring Quli Khan’s tomb. His idea of perfection was to create a period feel in the whole area. And so, two follies came into place. One, a ziggurat (spiral minaret-like structure, Mediterranean), is within the Qutub complex. Another, a Chhatri (canopy) above a tiny hillock. It provided a view of ruin to the north of ‘Dilkusha’. The Folly has eight pillars supporting a very Rajputana Chhatri. Some consider it as Metcalfe’s attempt to recreate a Scottish lighthouse. If water could flow below it, the ‘folly’ would appear real.
Whatever the intention, these ruins have left us with precious knowledge of the times in which they existed. There are another 300+ monuments in Mehrauli Archeological Park. But then, an entire lifetime isn’t enough to explore and delve into the history of each. As a mere travel enthusiast, I’ll stop here and leave it for you to explore this enigma further.
