“To reach a port, we must set sail. Sail, not tie at anchor. Sail, not drift.”
Franklin D. Roosevelt
Forts on the Northern Coast of Goa – Part I
The West coast of India attracted the earliest of the seafaring nations of the world – the Portuguese, the Dutch, and the British. Portuguese navigator Vasco da Gama landed at Calicut in Kerala to become the first person to reach India. His purpose for coming here was spice trade (especially pepper). But, his visit was just a beginning for the Portuguese to grow roots in India and expand as far as the Gujarat coast.
Goa, the state that established Portuguese supremacy in India, also then required adequate protection on the sea front against other invaders from Europe that followed, and from home-grown Maratha warriors. Today, we can cherish these heritage structures of indestructible forts on the Northern Coast of Goa.
Fort Tiracol
Sitting at the border of Maharashtra and Goa’s northernmost tip, Terekhol or Tiracol is a sleepy fishing village and an exclave of Goa in the state of Maharashtra. A river bearing the same name as the village forms the boundary between the two states. In this exclave lies the fort of Tiracol that saw the bloodiest of battles fought between the Bhonsle clan and the Portuguese in 1746 AD.
Maharaja Khem Sawant Bhonsle, the ruler of Sawantwadi, built this fort in the 17th century. A fleet of ships positioned in the Arabian Sea surrounding it offered protection to the rulers. After acquiring it from the Bhonsle, the Portuguese established twelve guns for added cover. They also added a barrack and the chapel for the Holy Trinity after the capture.
Structures within
Fort Tiracol is today a boutique heritage hotel catering to connoisseurs of heritage, history and tranquil travel. With the barracks converted into rooms named after the days of the week, it boasts of a picturesque restaurant on the first floor with a sweeping view of the sea and the beach.
Entrance to the fort is through the hotel, the tiny door hiding the expanse within. Walking out of the double-L doorway, the whitewashed chapel of St. Anthony looms large (see featured image). Facing it is a statue of Christ the King in full regalia, standing on a pedestal. Entry to the chapel is open only on the Annual Feast day in May.
Next to the chapel is an incline to roll cannons up to the bastions above. A flag post sits in the bastion closest to the incline. Freedom fighters put up the Indian flag for a day in 1954 AD while fighting for Goa’s liberation from the Portuguese.
Outer structures
Access to these is possible only for residents or to the resourceful! Winding stone steps take you down around three floors to a massive bastion facing the sea. It is brilliant because it allowed for an agile manoeuvring of a cannon. And now, it allows for some breathtaking views.
Another interesting marker lies outside the main gate of the property, next to the parking lot. The inscription mentions it as a memorial to one Antonio Sebastiao who passed in 1893 AD.
The best way to enjoy this fort is of course by staying over, but the next best thing could be to taste the restaurant’s wholesome options with a drink in hand. Goa is a land of relaxation and at Tiracol, you get it in all its glory.
