“History is a gallery of pictures in which there are few originals and many copies.”
Alexis de Tocqueville
Chowmahalla Palace Part-I, Hyderabad, India
Throughout the Hyderabad series, the numeral FOUR is following me around. From the Char Bagh-influenced mausoleum of Mah Laqa Bai to Charminar and now to Chowmahallat (Four palaces in Dakhini Urdu) – the royal residence of Asaf Jahis since the early 19th century. Recipient of ‘The UNESCO Asia Pacific Merit Award for Cultural Heritage Conservation’ in 2010. The credit for which goes to Princess Esra, who went through great hardships to polish this gem and present to the world.
Salabat Jung began its construction in 1751 when he ascended the throne. A busy soldier, fighting Marathas and Moghuls, he never got to stay much in it. The succeeding rulers divided their time between Masarrat Mahal and Chowmahallat, until the third Nizam Sikander Jah, made it his more permanent residence.
But it wasn’t until the reign of the fifth Nizam (1857-1869), Afzal ud-Daula, Asaf Jah V, Mir Tahniyath Ali Khan Siddiqi Bayafandi when the Chowmahalla Palace got into sheets of history as a landmark.
A strategic renovation
Afzal ud-Daula ruled during a politically secure and financially prosperous period of the Nizams. He could assert himself as a sovereign ruler of a Princely State, not under the coercion of the British. To stamp his new political identity on the urban fabric of Hyderabad, he restored many of the monuments of the old city, including the Chowmahalla Palace.
With the newly built Afzal gate, the palace became accessible to the British Residency at Chaderghat from the Durbar side entrance, instead of the rear. This was a move to connect the two power centres of the city across the river Musi.
The Palace Complex
Spread over 45 acres when lived in, the palace has shrunk to a mere 12 acres with two courtyards. The name, Chowmahallat, reflects the design of the palace complex with strong Persian architectural influences.
Four (Chahar or Chow) pavilions surround a rectangular tank in each courtyard. As the date of construction goes, the Southern Courtyard of the palace complex precedes the Northern. Beyond these two courtyards were Havelis (mansions) for the royal ladies – Manjli Begum ki haveli, Bakshi Begum ki haveli, and Chandni Begum ki haveli. These lie outside the complex and are encroached, dilapidated or destroyed.
The Rang Mahal (Palace of Colours), Tosha Khana (Treasury), Moti Bangla (Pearl Bungalow) and Roshan Bangla (Lit-up Bungalow) were some other buildings in the complex.
The Northern Courtyard
Chowmahalla Palace is a hidden treasure. From the outside, one can never fathom the beauty within. A large gateway flanked with two huge windows marks the entry to the palace complex. Ahead, a rectangular pool surrounded by manicured gardens greets the visitors.
Bara Imam, a building with a long corridor and rooms on one side is to the east of the pool. It held the administrative offices, but now houses a photo studio and the Museum store. The building opposite is Shishe-Alat, meaning a mirror image. It holds the office of the Museum Director.
Khilwat Mubarak and Clock Tower
The western side of the courtyard has the Khilwat Clock. It has been operational for over 250 years and served as one of the four entrances to the palace. Next to the Clock tower gate is the Council Hall. The Nizam would receive officials and minor dignitaries here.
The grand Durbar Hall of the Nizam is a striking edifice in the Indo-Saracenic style. Interspersed with Mughal style pointed arches and grand pillars are Persian domes, Chhatris on the roof, and Jharokha-style windows. Intricate stucco work adorns the outer walls.
The Khilwat with its Takht-e-Nishan or the royal seat is a resplendent building befitting the stature of the Nizam.
