“Still, round the corner, there may wait, a new road or a secret gate.”
J. R. R. Tolkien
Guhagar, Jaigad and Ganpatipule – A Storyboard
Until now, I have taken you through four episodes of history and heritage on the coast of Maharashtra. As I embark on the 5th and penultimate of the series, the road takes me to Guhagar, Jaigad and Ganpatipule. This stretch of drive is as pristine and rustic as it could get, with tempting turquoise blue waters. Small fishing villages come through now and then, dotted by mango orchards.
A ferry from Dabhol brings us to Dhopave from where Guhagar is en route Tavasal where our next ferry awaits. Guhagar, a sleepy town famous for its beach, also boasts of many temples. Among them, the 300-year-old Ufrata Ganapati is a small but significant one. Villagers found the idol while fishing and brought it to the mainland. On one occasion, the tide went too high and scared the folks. They turned the idol towards the sea on the west and prayed for safety. Their belief that the ocean would not challenge Lord Ganapati came true as the waters receded. Henceforth, the name Ufrata (reversed, in Marathi) Ganapati, stuck.
The Fort of Jaigad
From Tavasal, our next ferry ride brings us to Jaigad. Zyghur, as the British records mention, sits at the confluence of the Shastri river and the Arabian Sea. Perched up high to function effectively as a watchtower, the Sultans of Bijapur built this fort in the late 16th century.
There is an interesting story involving the Sultan and a local, Jai Ba. The construction of the ramparts wasn’t going well, as they kept falling down. So the locals suggested a human sacrifice prevalent during the period as appeasement. Jaiba Mahar volunteered for this purpose and the Sultans named the fort in his honour.
Entrance to the fort is from the east and it stretches to the wide creek that overlooks the sea. Prominent structures within the fort are massive circular three storeys tall watchtowers on the ramparts. Ruins of stables and other buildings from the 19th century of British origin are also within the complex.
Ganpatipule Temple
Like the Guhagar Ganapati, this one also faces the west, but the story behind it is different. Around 400 years ago, there was no settlement towards the beach and only the hill sloped down. A Brahmin, troubled by his misfortunes, used to come to this side of the hill to pray to Ganapati. Pleased by his devotion, the Lord visited him in his dreams and informed that He is present in the very hill. Within the next few days, the Brahmin observes a non-milking cow oozing milk on a particular spot and, upon clearing the place, finds the Ganapati idol he saw in the dream.
Pule means beach sand in Marathi and the name of the area comes from this temple that is right on the beach. Annaji Datta, a trusted minister of Shivaji Maharaj, and the Peshwas in the later years, developed the temple complex as it appears today. Devotees revere and worship the self-manifested (Swayambhu) deity as a protector of the West (Paschim Dwar Devta).
The Guhagar-Jaigad-Ganpatipule Storyboard intends to tell and hear the stories around these places that are awaiting narration. Next time you travel, be open to pick up some lores and hear the place speak volumes.
The last episode of the Coastal Road trip comes next month on ImageWrighter. Until then, wishing you a happy holiday season…
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