“But a city is more than a place in space, it is a drama in time.”
Patrick Geddes
The BMC Building – Mumbai’s Masterpiece
Standing in the shadow of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, that is the Victoria Terminus (Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus), the headquarters of the Mumbai Municipal Corporation (Brihanmumbai Mahanagar Palika or BMC) is a large ignored edifice. It could be because one cannot enter it, being the offices of the local governing body.
That makes it even more special when one gets a guided tour of interiors with permission to capture it in its full glory. On a fine Saturday morning, I had the privilege to enter the auspices, and observe for myself, what Welsh historian Jan Morris calls “marvellously miscegenated”. In simple words – A mix of culture, styles, and architecture.
Sitting at the Crossroads
This enormous complex sits at the junction of three roads – Dr. DN Road, Mahapalika Marg (Municipal Corporation Road), and Hazarimal Somani Marg. And this is not the only crossroad I’m talking about today. The architectural synthesis that this edifice represents are from the two very distinct Venetian-Gothic, and Indo-Saracenic styles. This building brought together Imperialistic dominance at a parallel with civic pride.
F. W. Stevens designed this masterpiece, with construction beginning in 1884 AD and finished by 1893 AD. Sources say Stevens went back to his hometown of Bath in England to get inspiration and develop the blueprint. The inspired result showcased Indo-Saracenic onion domes and lotus bases, and the Venetian-Gothic winged Lion, a Griffin-like sculpture, high gables, and the majestic figure of Urbs Prima in Indis.
Art of the Architect
The structure that towers over the Victoria Terminus building is a V-shaped construct dominated by the 255 feet high tower. Gables and archways in honey-coloured stone interspersed with bands of white stone are the highlights. Two signature structures make this building unique – The seal of the Municipal Corporation, and the statue of ‘Urbs Prima’ atop the gable.
The singular feature of this magnificent monument is the large onion-shaped dome sitting on a tall drum. Four minarets having smaller onion domes with lotus bases surround this dome in the corners. Trifoliate window arches with semi-circular windows make the composition of the facade.
Mumbai’s Masterpiece
As we look a little lower, the winged figure of the ‘Spirit of Bombay’ – the Urbs Prima in Indis stands atop the gable. Her raised hand holds a ship signifying the importance and prowess of Mumbai over the sea. Just below it is the seal of the Municipal Corporation of Greater Mumbai (MCGM) – the most recent adaptation. It shows four engravings – the sign of industry on the top right, the headquarters building on the bottom right, three ships on bottom left, and The Gateway of India on the top left. Above it, a lion signifying bravery, and strength (see featured image).
At the lowermost level above the ground, balcony projections with balustrade parapets capture our eye. Largish figures of the griffin sit at the corners looking over the street where the grand statue of Sir Pherozeshah Mehta sits. Large gothic arches mark the entrance to the inner sanctum of the BMC Building – Mumbai’s Masterpiece.
