“A Sufi is alive to the value of time, and is given, every moment, to what that moment demands.”
Idries Shah
Sheikh Chilli – Sufism’s Krishna In Kurukshetra
The name Kurukshetra brings to mind the war of Mahabharata and the deliverance of the Bhagavad Gita by Lord Krishna. All the sites identified in and around this city have a connection with this legend and my last post gave a glimpse of all the sites one can see here. Within the city of Kurukshetra lies the historic municipality of Thanesar that derives its name from the Sthaneshwar Mahadeva Temple, a site important for both Hindus and Sikhs.
You may wonder why this article is focusing on Sufism while discussing the legends of Mahabharata. My intrigue comes from the presence of the mausoleum of the Sufi saint Sheikh Chilli – Krishna to Dara Shikoh’s Arjun-esque queries. His tomb is near Sthaneshwar Mahadev and adjoining the archaeological site of Harsh ka Tila (Harsh’s mound).
The legend of Sheikh Chilli
Many in India have grown up listening to the funny stories of Sheikh Chilli, a comic portrayed as a foolish person who thinks of himself as intelligent. The linkages of how a renowned scholar and the teacher of a prince came to be depicted as a comic are still being unearthed.
The word ‘Chilli’ is a corruption of ‘Chehli’ meaning 40 in Persian. Historians believe Sheikh Chehli to be a saint who had done a chilla, or a 40-day solitary, spiritual retreat. He was the spiritual guide of the Mughal Prince, Dara Shikoh (1650 AD), the eldest son of Emperor Shah Jahan. A Sufi saint of the Qadiriya order, his name could have been Abdur Rahim, also referred to as Abdul Karim or Abdur Razzak.
As a location dominated by Chishti saints, it is also quite intriguing to find this tomb here. The resting place of Sheikh Chilli, Sufism’s Krishna, in Kurukshetra shows how certain geographical locations go beyond strict religious identities.
Significant location and architecture
The Sheikh Chilli mausoleum is an important study, considering its location. It lies close to the Grand Trunk road, an important trade route for 2500 years, and next to the post-Harappan archaeological site of King Harsh’s mound. The ~2400 kms GT road had various names, such as Uttarapath, Sadak-e-Azam, Badshahi Sadak. Owing to this, a caravanserai from the 7th century is present in the complex.
The complex showcases architectural styles from different periods of time. There are two tombs, a madrasa, mosque, serai, and gardens in the char-bagh style. The entrance to the mausoleum complex is through an arched gateway with a hanging window (jharokha) over it. A staircase leads from here to the Madrasa complex that comprises the garden surrounded by the rooms. A central fountain adorns the garden.
The tomb of Sheikh Chilli and Stone Mosque
From the garden, another flight of steps takes us to the tombs on a higher level. The podium is marked by Chhatris on all sides that stand over fluted minarets. The octagonal main tomb is of buff sandstone topped with a pearl shaped marble dome characterised by an inverted lotus pattern. It is surrounded by a verandah with intricate jali doorways. Carved floral designs on a smaller red sandstone construct marks the tomb of Sheikh Chilli’s wife.
Diagonally opposite this complex is Pathar Masjid (Stone Mosque) from the 17th century, made of red sandstone. Fluted minarets are the highlights of this simple construct, so are the delicate carvings on the base and capital. The masonry terrace in the front is from a later date than the main prayer area.
Together, all these buildings make for a well balanced visual with equal importance being given to the height, width and design. A visit to this monument isn’t complete without checking into the museum housed within the Madrasa. It has artefacts excavated from the site next door as well as around the district. The views from the podium are spectacular as well.
Kurukshetra isn’t just about the Mahabharata epic, it brings out the teachings of Sufism and the exalted relationship between the teacher and the taught.
Find your lessons and more at Thanesar…
Pin the amalgamation!
