“Faith is a strong fortress.”
Lailah Gifty Akita
Madan Mahal Fort, Jabalpur, Madhya Pradesh
History is not a story of the past. It reflects the art, culture, architecture and military prowess of the era. And it becomes more significant in a queen’s reign. One such lesser-known historical marvel is Madan Mahal Fort. Perched atop the hills, it is carved out of a single rock of granite! A man-made stone structure, starkly different from the natural Marble Rocks at Bhedaghat and Dhuandhar.
The Tale of the Queen
Madan Mahal is not a fort. It was built as a military post by the 37th Gond ruler Madan Singh in the 11th century. His mother Rani Durgavati (Queen Durgavati) used this post as a watchtower. It is also known as Durgavati Fort.
The Gond rulers reigned over Jabalpur, Mandla, and surrounding regions. Queen Durgavati (1524-1564) defeated the Malwa king Baz Bahadur many times. She extended her kingdom to the border with the Mughals. Fighting fiercely, she defended her region from the Mughals. But succumbed to the huge army. Her samadhi (memorial) is at Barela, a small village 20 kilometres away en route Mandla.
A just ruler and efficient administrator, Queen Durgawati left a generous imprint on this region. In her honour, the University of Jabalpur was named Rani Durgavati Vishwavidyalaya (Queen Durgavati University).
Exploring the Fort
Madan Mahal Fort is 500 metres uphill from the road, with stone steps to guide. As we walk towards it, naturally cut rocks in different formations catch the eye. It is rugged terrain. And one can imagine how difficult it would have been to reach it then. A perfect place for a watchtower.
The imposing fort looms in the front like a giant. It seems to be perched over a massive boulder. This is the single piece of granite the watch-tower fort has been carved out of.
From the base of the rock, there are steps to reach the upper storey. These steps are quite narrow and lead to an open foyer of sorts. The foyer extends to two small rooms. The one in the front is large enough for the Queen or her Commander to hold court with 4-5 people. The room on the right is smaller and more private. The intriguing aspect of this room is the presence of a trapdoor. It opens into a cubbyhole. Folklore suggests a hidden tunnel from here to Mandla district. It is also believed that the Queen used this secret passage to pray at the Shardadevi Temple in the vicinity. Carvings on the foyer area suggest the Queen’s hand in its construction.
Within the Fort Complex, military barracks line the right side. A pond and some stables too. Although in ruins, these are the perfect foil for capturing stunning images of the tower.
View from the top
The visibility from the first storey is extensive. One can see a large expanse of the city sprawled all around. The east has views of Katanga TV Tower and Shakti Bhawan (Headquarters of the State Electricity Board). In the West lays Pisanhari ki Madiya, an important temple and pilgrimage centre for the Jains. Towards the North, two huge lakes, Supataal and GangaSagar invite the gaze.
Around the Fort
There are two places to visit around once you’ve soaked in the solitude of Madan Mahal. The Shardadevi (Goddess Saraswati) Temple. And a small enclosure protecting the famous Balancing Rock. A large oval stone boulder balancing on another. A geological marvel, these have remained unmoved for centuries. The assumption is that the weight and positioning along with the gravitational pull made these rocks withstand the 1997 earthquake.
So long Folks! See you next week with another series, another place.
Came across this write-up engaged, added to diigo
Thanks a lot, Yamauchi!
Came across this blog post engaged, added to digg
Thanks, Burriss!