“The way we spend our time defines who we are.”
Jonathan Estrin
Looking Beyond the Portuguese at Bicholim in Goa
Time stands still in the tiny village of Sanquelim where religion, history and nature converge to create a fluid narrative. Close to the ancestral home of the Ranes, the trinity of Arvalem waterfalls, Rudreshwar temple and Arvalem caves make for an ideal outing. The revised map of the state of Goa puts these in Sanquelim village, whereas the names come from the nearby village of Harvalem, both within the Bicholim Taluka. This region also has the Mayem Lake, a modern hangout for the younger crowd.
Harvalem (Arvalem) Caves
Buddhist caves with Shivalingas, a rare combination indeed. It’s no wonder when we start looking beyond the Portuguese in Goa that we find such gems. Travelling Buddhist monks carved these 6th century rock-cut caves out of a single laterite rock. The other legend names them as Pandava Caves, residence-in-exile of the Pandava brothers from Mahabharata.
Attribution to the Buddhist origins comes from the discovery of a large Buddha statue and a 4th century Buddha head in the area. As per Buddhist practice, the southern end of the cluster has a Vihara (Temple) bearing a platform. The small size of the chambers held by pillars suggests these were not permanent lodgings.
Four of the five dwellings house a Linga (Phallic symbol of Shiva) within. The lingas are of granite and are on a pedestal. All of them bear Sanskrit carvings in Brahmi script. One in the central grotto is the largest and most revered by the locals. The inscription on the linga in the second cave denotes it as the Sun God, Ravi.
The inscriptions dating to 600 AD from the reign of King Kapilavarman in the Bhoja period establish the Brahmin origins of the lingas. Historians also indicate the prevalence of Buddhism until around 500 AD, after which Hindu kingdoms found wider acceptance in Goa.
Around Arvalem Waterfall
A walking distance from the caves is the famed plunge waterfall of Arvalem and before you reach them, the ancient Rudreshwar Mahadev Temple. The temple is a recent construct, though. Read more on them here.
More interesting around the temple is the quaint village with everyday living a departure from what we see or experience. Residents celebrate the five-day festival of Diwali with much enthusiasm, as you’ll notice from these images.
Mayem Lake
Another attraction in the Bicholim district is the Mayem Lake. Further away from the waterfall and caves, forest-covered hills surround this natural beauty. A seating area and park make for a pleasant picnic spot for the locals. The recent addition of a bungee-jumping platform is another attraction to enjoy on a day-trip here.
Whether you are put up in North or South Goa, approaching Bicholim is a long, but the most scenic drive. Winding roads, forest cover, and rustic charm of the villages make it a worthwhile trip. And though I recommend looking beyond the Portuguese at Bicholim in Goa,
