“An investment in knowledge always pays the best interest.”
Benjamin Franklin
Hauz Khas Fort Complex, Delhi
Misinformation ran riot when I tried to find out the mixed heritage at the Hauz Khas fort complex. For centuries, historians credited Firoz Shah Tughlaq for constructing Hauz Khas. The reason being that by the Tughlaq period, Hauz-e-Alai (the tank) was in disrepair. So, Firoz Shah Tughlaq took upon himself to restore the tank and construct additional structures around the ruins from the Khilji period.
Another reason being, when Taimur attacked the Sultanate in 1399 AD, he assumed that it was a Tughlaq period construction, and thus, Khilji’s name ceased to be of importance. The Hauz Khas Fort complex has a college, a mosque, a tomb, and many pavilions within.
Grounds around the entrance
Entrance to this complex is through the Hauz Khas village. Boutiques and restaurants line the winding narrow lane that leads up to the doorway. This is the eastern edge, and the doorway displays Indo-Islamic architecture.
Upon entering, a group of pavilions sit right in front that is reminiscent of Chhatri from Rajasthan. The assumption is that they were graves of the teachers at the Madrasa. To the right of these pavilions is the northern wing of the Madrasa (College for theological training) built in 1352 AD. The grounds also have ruins of a courtyard in between the pavilions.
The Northern Enclosure
Walking towards the north, there is a L-shaped construct, a pillared assembly hall. This enclosure is now a nice sit out with benches, from where one can enjoy the serene views of the Hauz.
Further down is a small mosque for the inhabitants. It is unique in that instead of the solid wall pointing to the direction of Mecca, arched niches alternate with hanging windows opening towards the Hauz Khas.
Tomb of Firoz Shah Tughlaq
The signature edifice of this complex is Firoz Shah Tughlaq’s tomb that connects the western and northern wing of the theological college. Firoz Shah constructed it in 1350 AD, much before his death in 1388 AD as the practice was. Apart from his own, his son’s and grandson’s graves are also in the tomb.
The dome of this tomb is flattish, and there are ceremonial steps leading to the larger steps that connect to the reservoir – a typical Tughlaq period architecture. It is surprising to see a Buddhist style parapet around the tomb. Sikandar Lodi, during his reign, repaired the tomb in 1507 AD.
The Western Wing and Madrasa
In the 14th century, when Firoz Shah built the seminary, it became one of the leading institutions in Islamic education. Its unusual architecture allowed all the residents a constant and fulfilling view of the Hauz Khas. The western wing of the college is two storeyed with the lower level having arcades for the pupils. Open pillared rooms at the top were classes, it appears.
This wing ends in a large two-storey domed building with a courtyard facing two more buildings. At different points throughout the edifice, steps lead down from the upper storeys to the reservoir. These are not accessible nowadays.
The fort complex, the reservoir and the adjoining Deer Park with a walk around the Hauz Khas precinct make for a great time spent amongst heritage and nature. Throw some shopping in, and you have a memorable holiday!
