“If we were meant to stay in one place, we’d have roots instead of feet.”
Rachel Wolchin
From the adventure at Harihareshwar, the next destination beckoned to look at the history of the region. Another ferry ride from Bagmandale to Veshvi brings one to the oft forgotten fort of Bankot. Along with Velas, Ladghar, Burondi and Dabhol, the road to Dapoli takes one through the thick of the Western Ghats.
While Bankot has the ruins of a fort, Velas is now getting all the attention owing to its Olive Ridley turtle breeding program. If you yearn for some solitude, Ladghar beach and its cottages are the place to be. And while on the way to the famous port of Dabhol, stop for a while to pay respects to sage Parshuram in Burondi.
The history of Bankot
Perched high up the cliff on the mouth of Savitri river, Fort Victoria or Bankot served as the protector of the port lying at the foot of the hill. A minor port by Konkan standards, its advantage lies in opening earlier and remaining open longer during the monsoon than most Ratnagiri ports.
Captured by the Portuguese from Sultan Adil Shah in 1548 AD, it came into the possession of Kanhoji Angre in 1700 AD. Except for some unverified references from Chinese and Portuguese sailors, Bankot didn’t come into prominence until 1755 AD. Conclusive evidence of Himmatgad (Fort of Strength), as the Marathas called Bankot, comes from its British conquest. From then on, Fort Victoria became Bankot’s new identity.
Bankot Fort ruins
The road to reach Bankot is narrow and winding up the hill, almost making one feel there’s nothing further. But, as the road ends, the size of the fort and the views from the top are amazing. Entrance to the fort is through a massive gate on which is perched a saffron flag, showing its Maratha ancestry.
Beyond the gateway is a vast courtyard. Ramparts are quite intact and on ascent offer spectacular views of the Savitri confluence and beaches beyond. Towards the western entrance, there are a few bastions and a deep well.
Shahi Masjid Dabhol
The road to Dapoli via history takes us to the Shahi Masjid (Royal Mosque) close to our next ferry ride at Dabhol. A mosque from the Adil Shahi period, Anda Masjid (Egg Mosque) and Ma-Saheba Masjid (Honoured Mother Mosque) are the other names it has. Sultan Adil Shah’s Begum (Wife) Aisha Bibi got it built in 1660 AD.
The mosque displays elements of Islamic architecture such as minarets, domes, and pointed arches. Made of black trap stone, the courtyard features a fountain and a few tombstones. The main entrance to the complex is in an advanced state of disrepair, as is the surrounding wall. The importance of Dabhol diminished in the 1800s, and the town didn’t receive any attention until the power station scandal brought it infamy once more.
Between the two historical milestones of Bankot and Dabhol, a stay at the beautiful Ladghar beach and a relaxed visit to Parshuram Bhoomi (land) meditation centre at Burondi balanced out this trip.
As the holiday season comes closer, plan this mind-opening road trip…
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