“The greatest secrets are always hidden in the most unlikely places.”
Roald Dahl
Siddi Heritage at Murud, Raigad
If Alibag is a destination to have fun with water sports and sacking on the beach, it also boasts of some lesser-known history. Many of the local historical figures don’t find a mention in our textbooks and remain forgotten. One such important dynasty is of the Abyssinian Siddis, their story as intriguing as their presence in India.
Murud-Janjira in Raigad district of Maharashtra is one pocket where these African descendants of Bantu tribe live and flourish. Some other colonies are in Gujarat, Hyderabad and in the Western Ghats of Karnataka.
History of the Siddis
The word Siddi comes from the Persian Sayed/Sayyid and means Master. Within the community, they use it for those who became rulers. The common name is Habshi, Persian for Abyssinian. Its usage as a slur to denote African-Indians continues till date in many parts of India.
The African community arrived in 7th century India as fisherfolk, merchants, and slaves of the Arab, Portuguese and the British. Over a period, many rose as nobility in the royal courts owing to their intelligence, wit, and military prowess. From the 15th century onwards and until 16th and 17th century, Siddis were rulers in Ahmedabad, Golconda, Bengal and Janjira.
Siddi Heritage in Murud
Murud lies around 50 kms south of Alibag, and as one drives on the winding road, the Siddi Palace appears just before Murud beach. Called the Rajwada (King’s Mansion), it is a fine amalgamation of Gothic and Moghul elements. The spires and domes are unique in their placement. The palace continues to be inhabited by the descendants of the Nawab and isn’t open for visitors. What you get to see from the roadside is a visual treat by itself. Check these images out!
Famous for remaining unconquered, an engineering marvel built by the Siddi ruler, the Janjira Fort is ahead of the Murud beach and village. With 572 cannons, 22 bastions, and unique location, the Janjira Fort is a formidable fortress destroyed by time. As the road climbs upwards, the first view of the fort leaves you spellbound (See Featured Image). Accessible only by sea, Burhan Khan, the landlord of Murud, commissioned this fort on the Janjira Island. Completed in 1571 AD, he named the fort Janjira Mehroob (Moon Island).
Khokari Tombs
The spectacular lived-in Siddi heritage at Murud matches equally with the spaces occupied by the dead, too. Ahead of the fort, and close to the Agardanda Jetty, are 500-year-old tombs in Indo-Saracenic style. The Khokari Tombs have the grave of the great Siddi ruler Surul Khan and two other Siddi commanders. There is a mosque in the complex and a baobab tree brought by the African natives.
The largest of the tombs is of Surul Khan. Fine latticework screens adorn the exterior. Mughal influences such as pointed arches, heightened platform, and position of the structures are clear. The locals maintain the place well and it provides a calm place to rest up before proceeding ahead.
